Anya's cloak - first steps :)

Good news - the red merino wool fabric is dry - I just fetched it from our washkitchen downstairs.
I have to iron it carefully and I hope a good idea and solution for the next steps will strike me soon... :)

btw.: merry christmas and a happy new year :)


Anya's cloak - first steps :)

Katharina already sent some beautiful pearls and I bought some via eBay (about 1 week before I got to know that I really would need them *lol* :)
Anya, Fiona & Bridget promised to send more pearls :)
~ dear gentle reader of this blog,
if you find some pearls you would like to donate,
please don't hesitate to let me know :D ~
Today I pre-washed the red merino wool fabric for Anya's cloak (washing machine: wool, 30°C) and I think it will take about 2-3 days for drying

Because of the amount of thread I will need in relation to the money I can afford for this project after buying a lot of pearls, I decided to buy some of the "Lana Grossa - Basics hp No.31 - Color 30 Partie 3050" - the thread I normally use for my embroidery projects (except for the wallhanging) - about 115 m per ball of wool and because I can split the thread in 3 thinner threads, I have a total of about 340m per ball and I think that's a very good deal for about €2,70 per ball - the wool shop had only 2 balls left, but with my ball of wool I will have enough wool until the shop gets a new delivery :)
Ok, it's Cotton but the color is very beautiful and bright and the thread is not as sensitive as wool thread concerning care or working with it. I made a small sample - Satin Stitch - using different threads and this was the thread with the best looking result :)

Update 24.12.2007:
Many thanks to Mistress Bridget & Lady Fiona for the pearls that arrived today :)


Anya's cloak

I added some color to give you a better impression of what I am planning for Anya.

The cloak is inspired by the pictures of russian cloaks Anya sent me and some other cloaks like the one from the austrian treasury - cloak Rogers II (2x the lion on top of the camel) , the Sternenmantel and the cloak of the Hl. Kunigunde,...
it looks like Medallions are a well known stylistic element and are also placed as a part inside the border lines - that's why I also place the laurel roundels inside the border.

First the roundels and the border will be made - than the part which holds both sides together and avoids slipping the cloak from Anya's shoulders and the embroidery parts at the upper arms...

...and if some time is still left I will fill the cloak fabric with laurel wreaths - maybe with satin stitch or only the outlines in split-stitch or chainstitch,... - but really only if enough time will be left :)

...and maybe my good friend Lady Katharina, also a good friend of Anya, will provide some good looking gloves to this cloak :) - we will see...

btw.: the technique normally not used by me will be: russian pearl embroidery (I really hope that I understood this technique but soon I will know it for sure), I also never tried "diapered" couching before and I will have a lot of time to practise more 'normal' couching (with small patterns because of the modern gold thread I will use, I have done it seldom till now but I love this technique) - I think that are enough techniques I don't use very often :D


Racaire's project

ok, the last weekend I was surprised with my main 'Something to keep you warm'-Project - maybe some of you know that Anya become a Laurel last weekend and now I am planning her Laurel-cloak and its embroidery - it looks like I have to learn a lot about Byzantine/Russian cloaks and their embroidery now.


sample for my project...

...today I decided to make a 'Gugel'-sample for my project because I can test it at university

I am sure it will keep me warm and maybe I get some advice from some Lords and Ladies who are more experienced concerning sewing, patterns and 'Gugels' and this is a kind of garb I can wear while traveling to university and less garb inside my suitcase = more place for other things :)


Need to get started!

I've decided to do 3" rondells for the scatterd sapphires and chalices that will go on the skirt. Now I just need to get my tush in gear and start them! It would probably help if I get the fabric and fur that will make up the sideless. ARGHHHHH!!! Where does the time go?


What to make ?

Frankly, I have no idea what so ever of what to make. My son wants me to sew pictures on his viking clothes, but that can get a bit boring if I'm going to stick with historically correct . He wants chinese dragons btw.

As we only have reenactment groups here in Norway, my choice of timeframe is a bit limited and mid 17thC is out of period. It's viking or early 15thC unless I do another period just because I want to.

So I think I'll start out with a quilted silk purpoint for my son. And possibly a silkdress with gold/silver/pearls/silkfloss.... for me. Finally something other than the work outfit to wear to a market.



Andie from Renaissance Dyeing likes our project very much and offers a 15% discount to everyone who wants to use Renaissance Dyeing crewel wool for the new challenge. :D
If someone of you wants to order some wool from Renaissance Dyeing please don't hesitate to contact me and I will provide you with the information how you will get your 15% discount.
Many thanks to Andie for this offer :)


...btw. if someone of you still would like to make a quilt - I found at the Flickr page of Jane Stockton a beautiful picture of a part of the Tristan Quilt - lovely!
Many thanks to Jane for sharing this picture :)

Update 21.09.2007:
Thanks to Fotos von Medieval and Renaissance - V&A for sharing this beautiful picture :)
Yis Racaire



I made a second post tonight ,the other one is long enough

I will do Armenian embroidery on my new orange wool gown that I wore at Nibelungen War. It´s plain at the moment and so it´s a good chance to test the technique.
I can ask about some history of the embroidery technique and have all the materials for it here

I think it´s a good decision.

Greetz Alenn

Edited by Anya for grammar (upon request)


here I am again (Alenn)

Racaire persuaded me to take part in the Challenge,too. I dont know what I want to make yet,and I think I will not decide it before University. After that I'll start new with projects and then I will show what I found for the documentation of what I'd like to make .Racaire and I discussed Embroidered Stockings ,but I haven´t found anything about them. I asked Giano and Kate from my shire ,and neither know more than me. There's a page where I found something , which also tells many things from the book "Textiles and Clothing"


The second one, I think, was about was a flemish hood,but Racaire is making one ,too.
The next problem is that I use most medieval authentic stiches ,so there was nothing new for me. I found last time a technique which is called " armenian embroidery" ,and I'd like to test it .The works they show on the site are really great, and I'm also thinking about to making a blanket, but I also think it´s too much for my arm at the moment . Nothing is very easy at this time


So I like to ask
Does anyone have an idea where I can find something more about stockings with embroidery

or do you think i should test the armenian embroidery ??

oh,I´m sorry ..I forget my introduction ...
My Name is Alenn von Horn ,and I come from the Shire of the Two seas in Hamburg ,Germany. I'm
not new in the Shire ,but in the SCA .I have embroidered and sewn my whole life long, and since joining the Shire I do a bit more than before . At the moment, I'm working on different A&S Projects, also for both my classes at University. After this I can think about beginning my project for the challenge. My English ist not so good ,but I hope everybody will understand me. Please feel free to ask me anything

Yours Alenn

Edited by Anya for grammar (upon request)

Embroidered Headdresses :)

Ursprünglich hochgeladen von racaire
...my yahoo account thought it would be a good idea to move my photos (ok, only 1 photo *lol*) from yahoo to flickr and therefore I registered for a flickr account and now, one month later, I know that this was a really good idea :)

...ok, for my project I was looking for pictures of embroidered gugls/ headdresses and here they are:

...and because I want to decorate the gugl with some bells I also was looking for some pictures of bells and here they are:

...and because an embroidered dress would be also very fine:


Well after being very cold at an event in Wales, my next project was always going to be cloaks for myself and my lord, so the opportunity to join in this project seemed fantastic! No major research done yet so the stitches that I use are dependant on that, I shall let you know as soon as I do!


thanks Anya, I got the links. I can only post to the blog from work, for some reason I can't see the blog at work. weird. Anyway thanks and I will look at what you are all doing when I can at home.



by the way....

we forgot to mention:
"And keep in mind that the challenge isn't
limited to one item per person,
if you've got the motivation feel free to make more!"
Text added today :)

Lost was found!!

It was 5:40pm at work and I only had 20 minutes left. I thought, "Well, I can check out a couple more websites." And there was the painting I had lost!!! http://www.sca.org.au/st_florians/university/library/articles-howtos/heraldry/HeraldicFrocksS.htm Surcoats are near the bottom, but this is where I'm getting my start!
It's very exciting to see what everyone is planning and can't wait to see the various stages of completion. Good luck to all and happy stitching!!

My project

Well I am going to try something new for me. I plan on doing a dark grey woolen tunic with red and gold embroiderey on the hem, cuffs, and yoke. As I told Anya, since I have never done sewing before I suppose any stitch I use will be a new one :)


seams, pleats and patterns

I thought about the pattern of the rain cloak. On all of the pictures you can see vertical lines. Are they pleats? Are they the pattern of the fabric? Are they quilted?
I'm quite sure that the cloak was made of wool with no linen inside - if it is a rain coat, wool is the best to keep the water away.
Is it a half circle? A 3/4 circle?
I'm a bit confused because of the lines here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1342714037&size=o and here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1342715613&size=o If you look at the bad weather picture it looks like the pleats or lines are horizontal with the beginning of the "cap". So it must be a 3/4 cloak, because it has more fabric in front of the body. But at the good weather picture all the lines are vertical! Here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c0/Frauen-Trachtenbuch_059.jpg they start vertically from the "cap" too and here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1343635576&size=o you can't see that much.
How is the visor attached? Is rattan cane in it to keep it stiff? Wouldn't that be damaged if it is to much in the rain?
Questions over questions ....

Anna's alternative project 2 - rain coat

Some of you do already know this funky coat from Jost Amman: http://de.wikisource.org/wiki/Bild:Frauen-Trachtenbuch_059.jpg Recently I've found more about it: http://flickr.com/photos/avsfoto/tags/mecklenburg/ (the first three). It shows, that this kind of coat was worn at good weather too. I have no idea how to do it, but it looks nice. Maybe a 3/4-mantle with a kind of stiffened hood. Will have to check that.

Anna's alternative project 1 - Helgoländer

If the research on simple quilts doesn't turn out good, here would me my first alternative: http://flickr.com/photos/tags/helgolaender/ So far I do only have pictures from this hat from the 19th/20th century, but I guess that a kind of stiffened hat existed in the 16th century too, just look at the Mary Stuart headwear. STill looking for more material, though.

Racaire's intro

I think I also should write a short intro. I am living in the shire Ad Flumen Caerulum - in Austria, Vienna. Like Anya I am trying to finish my wallhanging - the wallhanging project will take some additional months because of its size and than I will be able to start a rather small project for this challenge. I am not a documentation freak but I will do my best to do the research for this project and Anya helps me a lot to succeed. I am a technique geek and I love to research embroidery techniques (I have to admit that I am a small perfectionist :) - till now I did some research for Refilsaum and soon I will start to make some research for the Klosterstich technique I use for my wallhanging).

Anya's intro

Well, I suppose I should write a short intro too, eh? I'm in the incipient shire of Heilig-Drei-König, which is in Cologne, Germany. I think it's great to see how many places we all come from! I'm really excited about this project (I'll be starting the actual embroidery bit in a few months once I either finish the wallhanging or it finishes me :-) ). I'm a documentation freak, so if anyone is looking for resources or images, just let me know, I have a scanner...time to put my billions of books to actual use, right :-) Just please, remind me often, and remind me loudly. I'm a teacher and the semester is just starting, so I'm a bit forgetful at the moment. Welcome to you all!


Taryn's possible project

Hi all! I'm Taryn from the shire of Silfren Mere in the Kingdom of Northshield. My thought is to try for a new sideless surcoat. The top will be fur and the skirt embroidered with cups and jewels from my personal device. I know I found pictures out on the web to support these elements, but do you think I can find them now?! I could have sworn I had them saved in my favorites, but I guess I should stop swearing because they're not there now. So it's back to the drawing board to find this stuff. Will keep you posted and looking forward to seeing what everybody else is working on!


for Anna's project

I had a look through all my books but I have only found one period example of a "Steppdecke" that could maybe useful for you:
copyright by the book: "Das Stickereiwerk"

"169 'Coperta Guicciardini', Steppdecke (Ausschnitt)
Sizilien gegen 1400
Florenz, Museo Nazionale (Palazzo Davanzati) und London, Victoria and Albert Museum (1391-1904)
205x256 cm und 310x270, Größe des Ausschnitts (Florenz) 105 x 75cm
Die jetzt zweigeteilte Decke zeigt in rechteckigen Feldern Szenen aus dem Leben Tristans. - Doppelte Leinwand. Die Zeichnung mit Steppstich ist in nun bräunlichen Leinenfäden genäht, Grund ausgefüllt mit dichten Reihen kleiner weißer Vorstiche.
Lit.: L. Morelli, Un trapunto trecentesco: Dedalo, Anno II 1921/22 S.70"



Quick introduction

Hello everyone, this is Cristina blogging from southern Nordmark. My project will be a wool bedspread done with intarsia. I just came back from a weekend in Stockholm where I visited the Museum of National Antiquities and got to look at their beautiful intarsia-work!

The bedspread will have two main functions; a new bedspread for our bed at home and something to cover the bed (and keep us warm) in the tent at Wisby Medieval Week (a 9-day long event in August which we visited for the 6th time this year!). This means the project needs to be finished well before August next year... better start with the research! :)

Racaire's project

Sorry I forgot to post something about my project - at the moment I am thinking about 3 possibilities - 1) an embroidered gugl, 2) to embroidery my blue woolen dress (cotehardie) or 3) to make and embroider a new cotehardie...
At the moment I am looking for period examples for embroidered gugls, or for period embroidery on cotehardies (thank you very much for your help Anya!) - only problem: I have to finish my wallhanging before I can start with the next project - therefore I think that I will start only a rather small project for this challenge to be able to finish this project in time

Anna's project

I would like to make a quilted bedcover as simple as possible. Right now I'm reading through the few sources which are to find in the internet and looking for books. Everything's open so far.


second image try

my project

Hi all! I've finally decided what to do: I'm making a Tudor dress which has detachable sleeves. I plan on making them from thick wool and doing crewel embroidery on them, which I've never done before. If any of you have any resources on Tudor embroidery techniques, please let me know! I'm thinking about using a pattern like one of the above. These images are from a bed curtain that is a bit later than the dress, but I'm hoping to find images with similar patterns done on Tudor garb.
Any suggestions are welcome! (see above post for images)


Welcome to Embroidery Challenge II: Son of Embroidery Challenge

Sorry, but I think a new born blog needs a first post :) and because Anya has written such a wonderful text about our new Embroidery Challenge therefore I only copy the text from her eMail to the Drachenwald Mailing List and welcome you with it to our new Embroidery Challenge.
I hope you will enjoy participating in the new project or you will enjoy just visiting our blog and having a look at the progress of our participants :) I am very looking forward to read about the first ideas of our participants and to see the first pictures... :)
Yis Racaire ... and now, Anya's text :D :

Thats right everyone! The second embroidery challenge will begin on September 1st and run for one year (Racaire and I haven't finished our wall hangings yet, but since there was alot of interest shown in the next challenge we decided to start challenge II as planned:-) )! This time everyone who is interested may participate. We are stressing both research and embroidery, and as last time, at least 50% of the project must be done in a stitch not normally used by you.
This time around we are going for a more functional theme : things to keep you warm! The item embroidered must also be made by you, and can be anything from blankets to hats, gloves to stockings, coats to cloaks! The blog is already up and running, so for more info you can look here:
If you wish to participate in this year's challenge, you can email either me or racaire, both of our email addresses are on the blog. Research and sewing can take place in the project time, so don't wait! To get an idea of how the challenges are run, you can also look at the blog for the first challenge (the wallhanging challenge) : http://wallhanging.blogspot.com/
Several people approached me at Nibelungan about participating in this project and said that they weren't on the DM-L, so please, if you know someone in your group that would be interested, please let them know!