seams, pleats and patterns

I thought about the pattern of the rain cloak. On all of the pictures you can see vertical lines. Are they pleats? Are they the pattern of the fabric? Are they quilted?
I'm quite sure that the cloak was made of wool with no linen inside - if it is a rain coat, wool is the best to keep the water away.
Is it a half circle? A 3/4 circle?
I'm a bit confused because of the lines here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1342714037&size=o and here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1342715613&size=o If you look at the bad weather picture it looks like the pleats or lines are horizontal with the beginning of the "cap". So it must be a 3/4 cloak, because it has more fabric in front of the body. But at the good weather picture all the lines are vertical! Here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c0/Frauen-Trachtenbuch_059.jpg they start vertically from the "cap" too and here: http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1343635576&size=o you can't see that much.
How is the visor attached? Is rattan cane in it to keep it stiff? Wouldn't that be damaged if it is to much in the rain?
Questions over questions ....


Anya said...

so cool!
After looking at the pics, I'd definately say they are pleats...its clearer in the 4th link you posted. I don't see any horizontal lines, though?
The visor could be made of buckram (Steifleinen)...it was used for hats and stiffening bodices, so maybe it was used for that too? it holds up fairly decently in water and the wool would keep whatever stiffener you use dry, right?
I can't wait to see that cloak! What part are you going to embroider?

Anya said...

also, it looks to me to be a full circle cloak...but I'm not an expert! the pleats would make the fabric flexible, so when you clasp it around your neck, the visor stands up, but when it rains you can just pull the visor up and over your head with the pleats stretching to make extra room for your head.
Again, those are just my ideas from looking at the photos. you might want to quickly make a test one out of cheap fabric to see if it works out?

Anya said...

wish I could get it together and write everything in one comment :-)
but I've got some extra buckram...if you're going to university I can bring it with me and you can take it home to play around with it and see how it works?
Anya (again)

tb said...

well, at the second link, if you follw the visor to its end and then look at the first lines they look as if they were horizontally to the visor. Does that make sense?
A test model will be a good idea, I think too. And some buckram would be great!
Not thinking about embroidery so far as I had the hope that the pleats were no pleats but quilted. But well, I could quilt and pleat ;)

Anya said...

Me again:-)
If you can find documentation for a quilted cloak, i'd love to see it! I've never seen anything like it! otherwise, im sure embroidery around the edges would be beautiful and easy to document.
I looked again, and i think what you're seeing as horizontal lines are the straight pleats pulled up over the head. After looking again, it may well be a huge rectangle (and not a circle) of fabric (wide enough to go round the body, pleated at the top to be the same size as the visor. After it's pleated, it would look like a big rounded triangle with a duck bill shaped piece of covered buckram at the small end, (if that makes sense). then a clasp is fixed where it could be fastened around the neck when it isn't raining, as the pleats would allow it to stretch to sit on your head without any clasp, forming a kind of hood, and it would also stretch to fit over shoulders and so on.
Sorry for all the comments, but im really, really, fascinated by this cloak, and it would be really fun to see it made by someone! Its totally unique, and Ive never seen anyone in the sca wearing anything similar (i dont think i've even ever seen the pictures before). if you bring a lot of cheap fabric (5 meters? you can always sew a few old bedsheets together) to university (and you have time) in between my classes maybe we can experiment with different pleats to see what works? it always helps to have two people involved when you're trying to fit something heavy with pins sticking out of it on your head :-) Racaire will be there too, maybe we could all bring our pics of what we're planning on doing, to get some ideas?